What follows below is an indicative list of titles and sources that are relevant for this project. We hope to expand it over time.
Please email Vike Martina Plock (v.plock@exeter.ac.uk) if you have suggestions for titles that should be included here.
1. Dress: Art and Industry
Adburgham, Alison. Shops and Shopping 1800-1914. London: Allen and Unwin, 1981.
Breward, Christopher. The Culture of Fashion: New History of Fashionable Dress. Manchester
University Press, 1995.
—. Fashioning London: Clothing and the Modern Metropolis. Oxford: Berg, 2004.
Calloway, Stephen, and Lynn Ferderle Orr, eds. The Cult of Beauty: The Aesthetic Movement
1860-1900. London: V&A Publishing, 2011.
Ewing, Elizabeth. History of 20th Century Fashion. London: Batsford, 1974.
de la Haye, Amy, and Valerie Mendes. 20th Century Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson, 1999.
Lehmann, Ulrich. Tigersprung: Fashion in Modernity. London: MIT Press, 2001.
Lysack, Krista. Come Buy, Come Buy, Shopping and the Culture of Consumption in Victorian
Women’s Writing. Ohio: Ohio University Press, 2008.
Miller, Michael B. The Bon Marche: Bourgeois Culture and the Department Store, 1869-1920.
Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1981.
Perrot, Philippe. Fashioning the Bourgeoisie: A History of Clothing in the Nineteenth Century.
New Jersey: Princeton UP, 1994.
Rose, Clare, and Katrina Honeyman and Vivienne Richmond, eds. Clothing, Society and Culture in
Nineteenth Century England. London: Pickering and Chatto, 2010.
Schorman, Rob. Selling Style: Clothing and Social Change at the Turn of the Century.
Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2003.
Steele, Valerie. Paris Fashion: A Cultural History. Oxford: Berg, 1998.
Taylor, Lou. The Study of Dress History. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2002.
Troy, Nancy. Couture Culture: A Study in Modern Art and Fashion. London: MIT Press, 2003.
Wahl, Kimberley. Dressed as in a Painting: Women and British Aestheticism in an Age of Reform.
New Hampshire: University of New Hampshire Press, 2013.
Wilson, Elizabeth. Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity. London: I.B. Tauris, 2003.
2. Uniforms and Identity
Bonami, Francesco, Maria Luisa Frisa, and Stefano Tonchi, eds. Uniform: Order and Disorder.
Milan: Charta, 2000.
Craik, Jennifer. Uniforms Exposed: from Conformity to Transgression. Oxford: Berg, 2005.
Edwards, Nina. Dressed For War: Uniform, Civilian Clothing and Trappings 1914-1918. London:
I.B Tauris, 2015.
Fussell, Paul. Uniforms: Why We Are What We Wear. New York: Houghton, 2002.
Rose, Clare. Making, Selling and Wearing Boys’ Clothes in Late-Victorian England. Farnham:
Ashgate, 2010.
Shannon, Brent. The Cut of his Coat: Men, Dress, and Consumer Culture in Britain, 1860-1914.
Athens: Ohio University Press, 2006.
Tynan, Jane. British Army Uniform and the First World War: Men in Khaki. London: Palgrave, 2013.
Ugolini, Laura. Men and Menswear: Sartorial Consumption in Britain 1880-1939. Aldershot: Ashgate
2007.
3. Labour Behind the Label: Working with Textiles
Anderson, Cynthia D. The Social Consequences of Economic Restructuring in the Textile Industry:
Change in a Southern Mill Village. New York: Garland, 2000.
August, Andrew. The British Working Class 1832-1940. London: Routledge, 2014.
Chapman, Stanley David. The Early Factory Masters: The Transition to the Factory System in the
Midlands Textile Industry. Newton Abbot: David & Charles, 1967.
Cohen, Isaac. American Management and British Labor: A Comparative Study of the Cotton
Spinning Industry. Connecticut: Greenwood, 1990.
Dale, Pamela, Janet Greenlees & Joseph Melling. “The kiss of death or a flight of fancy? Workers’
health and the campaign to regulate shuttle kissing in the British cotton industry,
c. 1900–52.” Social History 32.1 (2007): 54-75.
Farnie, Douglas Antony. The English Cotton Industry and the World Market: 1815-1896. Oxford:
Clarendon, 1979.
Greenlees, Janet. Female Labour Power: Women Workers’ Influence on Business Practices in the
British and American Cotton Industries, 1780-1860. Aldershot: Ashgate, 2007.
Griffin, Emma. A Short History of the British Industrial Revolution. London: Palgrave, 2010.
Hobsbawm, Eric. The Age of Revolution: Europe 1789–1848. London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson Ltd,
1975.
Jowitt, J.A. and A.J. McIvor, eds. Employers and Labour in the English Textile Industries, 1850-1939. London: Routledge, 1988.
Rose, Mary. Firms, Networks, and Business Values: the British and American Cotton Industries since
1750. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2000.
Schwarzkopf, Jutta. “Gender and Technology: Inverting Established Patterns. The Lancashire Cotton
Weaving Industry at the Start of the Twentieth Century”. Working Out Gender: Perspectives
from labour history. Ed. Margaret Walsh. Aldershot: Ashgate, 1999. 151-166.
—. Unpicking Gender: The Social Construction of Gender in the Lancashire Cotton Weaving
Industry, 1880-1914. Aldershot: Ashgate, 2004.
Singleton, John. World Textile Industry. London: Routledge, 1997.
Smelser, Neil J. Social Change in the Industrial Revolution: An Application of Theory to the British
Cotton Industry. London: Routledge & K.Paul, 1959.
Taplin, Ian M. and, Jon Winterton eds. Restructuring within a Labour Intensive Industry: UK Clothing
Industry in Transition. Aldershot: Avebury, 1996.
Taylor, Frederick Winslow. The Principles of Scientific Management. New York:
Harper & Brothers, 1911.
White, Joseph L. “Lancashire Cotton Textiles”. A History of British Industrial Relations, 1875-1914.
Ed. Chris Wrigley. Brighton: Harvester, 1982. 209-229.
4. Women, Clothes and the New Workforce
Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen’s dresses and their construction c.1860-1940.
London: Macmillan, 2001.
Burman, Barbara. The Culture of Sewing: Gender, Consumption and Home Dressmaking
(Dress, Body, Culture). Oxford: Berg, 1999.
Carnevali, Francesca, and Julie-Marie Strange eds. 20th Century Britain: Economic, Cultural and
Social Change. Harlow: Pearson, 2007.
Cowman, Krista, and Louise A. Jackson. Women and Work Culture: Britain c.1850-1950.
Aldershot: Ashgate, 2005.
Cunningham, Patricia A. Reforming Women’s Fashion, 1850-1920: Politics, Health and Art.
Kent: Kent State University Press, 2003.
Greenlees, Janet. Female Labour Power: Women Workers’ Influence on Business Practices in the
British and American Cotton Industries, 1780-1860. Aldershot: Ashgate, 2007.
Kortsch, Christine Bayles. Dress Culture in Late Victorian Women’s Fiction: Literacy, Textiles and
Activism. Aldershot: Ashgate, 2009.
Kraut, Robert E. ed. Technology and the Transformation of White-collar Work. London: Psychology
Press, 1987.
Parkins, Ilya and Elizabeth M. Sheehan, eds. Cultures of Femininity in Modern Fashion. Durham:
University of New Hampshire Press, 2011.
Pinchbeck, Ivy. Women Workers in the Industrial Revolution 1750-1850. London: Virago, 1981.
Sanders, Lise Shapiro. Consuming Fantasies: Labor, Leisure and the London Shopgirl. Ohio State
University Press, 2006.
Thom, Deborah. Nice Girls and Rude Girls: Women Workers in World War I. London: I.B. Tauris,
1998.
Zakreski, Patricia. Representing Female Artistic Labour, 1848-1890: Refining Work for the
Middle-Class Woman. Aldershot: Ashgate, 2006.