Bibliography

What follows below is an indicative list of titles and sources that are relevant for this project. We hope to expand it over time.

Please email Vike Martina Plock (v.plock@exeter.ac.uk) if you have suggestions for titles that should be included here.

1. Dress: Art and Industry

Adburgham, Alison. Shops and Shopping 1800-1914.  London: Allen and Unwin, 1981.
Breward, Christopher. The Culture of Fashion: New History of Fashionable Dress. Manchester
University Press, 1995.
—. Fashioning London: Clothing and the Modern Metropolis. Oxford: Berg, 2004.
Calloway, Stephen, and Lynn Ferderle Orr, eds. The Cult of Beauty: The Aesthetic Movement
1860-1900.
London: V&A Publishing, 2011.
Ewing, Elizabeth. History of 20th Century Fashion. London: Batsford, 1974.
de la Haye, Amy, and Valerie Mendes. 20th Century Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson, 1999.
Lehmann, Ulrich. Tigersprung: Fashion in Modernity. London: MIT Press, 2001.
Lysack, Krista. Come Buy, Come Buy, Shopping and the Culture of Consumption in Victorian
Women’s Writing.
Ohio: Ohio University Press, 2008.
Miller, Michael B. The Bon Marche: Bourgeois Culture and the Department Store, 1869-1920.
Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1981.
Perrot, Philippe. Fashioning the Bourgeoisie: A History of Clothing in the Nineteenth Century.
New Jersey: Princeton UP, 1994. 
Rose, Clare, and Katrina Honeyman and Vivienne Richmond, eds. Clothing, Society and Culture in
Nineteenth Century England.
London: Pickering and Chatto, 2010.
Schorman, Rob. Selling Style: Clothing and Social Change at the Turn of the Century.
Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2003.
Steele, Valerie. Paris Fashion: A Cultural History. Oxford: Berg, 1998.
Taylor, Lou. The Study of Dress History. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2002.
Troy, Nancy. Couture Culture: A Study in Modern Art and Fashion. London: MIT Press, 2003.
Wahl, Kimberley. Dressed as in a Painting: Women and British Aestheticism in an Age of Reform.
New Hampshire: University of New Hampshire Press, 2013.
Wilson, Elizabeth. Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity. London: I.B. Tauris, 2003.

2. Uniforms and Identity

Bonami, Francesco, Maria Luisa Frisa, and Stefano Tonchi, eds. Uniform: Order and Disorder.
Milan: Charta, 2000.
Craik, Jennifer. Uniforms Exposed: from Conformity to Transgression. Oxford: Berg, 2005.
Edwards, Nina. Dressed For War: Uniform, Civilian Clothing and Trappings 1914-1918. London:
I.B Tauris, 2015.
Fussell, Paul. Uniforms: Why We Are What We Wear. New York: Houghton, 2002.
Rose, Clare. Making, Selling and Wearing Boys’ Clothes in Late-Victorian England. Farnham:
Ashgate, 2010.
Shannon, Brent. The Cut of his Coat: Men, Dress, and Consumer Culture in Britain, 1860-1914.
Athens: Ohio University Press, 2006.
Tynan, Jane. British Army Uniform and the First World War: Men in Khaki. London: Palgrave, 2013.
Ugolini, Laura. Men and Menswear: Sartorial Consumption in Britain 1880-1939. Aldershot: Ashgate
2007.

3. Labour Behind the Label: Working with Textiles

Anderson, Cynthia D. The Social Consequences of Economic Restructuring in the Textile Industry:
Change in a Southern Mill Village.
New York: Garland, 2000.
August, Andrew. The British Working Class 1832-1940. London: Routledge, 2014.
Chapman, Stanley David. The Early Factory Masters: The Transition to the Factory System in the
Midlands Textile Industry.
Newton Abbot: David & Charles, 1967.
Cohen, Isaac. American Management and British Labor: A Comparative Study of the Cotton
Spinning Industry.
Connecticut: Greenwood, 1990.
Dale, Pamela, Janet Greenlees & Joseph Melling. “The kiss of death or a flight of fancy? Workers’
health and the campaign to regulate shuttle kissing in the British cotton industry,
c. 1900–52.” Social History 32.1 (2007): 54-75.
Farnie, Douglas Antony. The English Cotton Industry and the World Market: 1815-1896. Oxford:
Clarendon, 1979.
Greenlees, Janet. Female Labour Power: Women Workers’ Influence on Business Practices in the
British and American Cotton Industries, 1780-1860.
Aldershot: Ashgate, 2007.
Griffin, Emma. A Short History of the British Industrial Revolution. London: Palgrave, 2010.
Hobsbawm, Eric. The Age of Revolution: Europe 1789–1848. London: Weidenfeld & Nicolson Ltd,
1975.
Jowitt, J.A. and A.J. McIvor, eds. Employers and Labour in the English Textile Industries, 1850-1939.       London: Routledge, 1988.
Rose, Mary. Firms, Networks, and Business Values: the British and American Cotton Industries since
1750
. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2000.
Schwarzkopf, Jutta. “Gender and Technology: Inverting Established Patterns. The Lancashire Cotton
Weaving Industry at the Start of the Twentieth Century”. Working Out Gender: Perspectives
from labour history
. Ed. Margaret Walsh. Aldershot: Ashgate, 1999. 151-166.
—. Unpicking Gender: The Social Construction of Gender in the Lancashire Cotton Weaving
Industry, 1880-1914
. Aldershot: Ashgate, 2004.
Singleton, John. World Textile Industry. London: Routledge, 1997.
Smelser, Neil J. Social Change in the Industrial Revolution: An Application of Theory to the British
Cotton Industry.
London: Routledge & K.Paul, 1959.
Taplin, Ian M. and, Jon Winterton eds. Restructuring within a Labour Intensive Industry: UK Clothing
Industry in Transition.
Aldershot: Avebury, 1996.
Taylor, Frederick Winslow. The Principles of Scientific Management. New York:
Harper & Brothers, 1911.
White, Joseph L. “Lancashire Cotton Textiles”.  A History of British Industrial Relations, 1875-1914.
Ed. Chris Wrigley. Brighton: Harvester, 1982. 209-229.

4. Women, Clothes and the New Workforce

Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen’s dresses and their construction c.1860-1940.
London: Macmillan, 2001.
Burman, Barbara. The Culture of Sewing: Gender, Consumption and Home Dressmaking
(Dress, Body, Culture)
. Oxford: Berg, 1999.
Carnevali, Francesca, and Julie-Marie Strange eds. 20th Century Britain: Economic, Cultural and
Social Change.
Harlow: Pearson, 2007.
Cowman, Krista, and Louise A. Jackson. Women and Work Culture: Britain c.1850-1950.
Aldershot: Ashgate, 2005.
Cunningham, Patricia A. Reforming Women’s Fashion, 1850-1920: Politics, Health and Art.
Kent: Kent State University Press, 2003.
Greenlees, Janet. Female Labour Power: Women Workers’ Influence on Business Practices in the
British and American Cotton Industries, 1780-1860.
Aldershot: Ashgate, 2007.
Kortsch, Christine Bayles. Dress Culture in Late Victorian Women’s Fiction: Literacy, Textiles and
Activism.
Aldershot: Ashgate, 2009.
Kraut, Robert E. ed. Technology and the Transformation of White-collar Work. London: Psychology
Press, 1987.
Parkins, Ilya and Elizabeth M. Sheehan, eds. Cultures of Femininity in Modern Fashion. Durham:
University of New Hampshire Press, 2011.
Pinchbeck, Ivy. Women Workers in the Industrial Revolution 1750-1850. London: Virago, 1981.
Sanders, Lise Shapiro. Consuming Fantasies: Labor, Leisure and the London Shopgirl. Ohio State
University Press, 2006.
Thom, Deborah. Nice Girls and Rude Girls: Women Workers in World War I. London: I.B. Tauris,
1998.
Zakreski, Patricia. Representing Female Artistic Labour, 1848-1890: Refining Work for the
Middle-Class Woman.
Aldershot: Ashgate, 2006.